MAS-210 Flex controls

MAS-210 Flex controls

As illustrated in the picture there are spaces for four switches.

Top: The tweeter control switch. This switch will allow selection of one, two, or no tweeters. The default setting is (marked with an *) the single tweeter setting.

Bottom: The Voicing control Switch. This controls the signal phase between the Mid/High section and the Woofer section.  The default setting (marked with an *) is in phase.

Arming Switch SW1: This switch arms or disarms the DARK setting in SW2. The default setting (marked with an *) is Neutral or Off.

Bright/Dark SW2: This switch controls Mid/High output in relation to the Woofer section. The default setting (marked with an *) is Dark. However, unless the Arming Switch SW1 is lifted to the Arm SW2 setting SW2 remains in the Neutral setting and the Dark setting is not enabled.

Placing all the switches in their Default settings places the cabinet in a Neutral voicing with an even response curve. In this setting the cabinet is +/- 7db from 35Hz to 16Khz.

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Switching in operation:

The MAS-210 Flex is shipped with all switches in the Default or Neutral setting. This is a good place to start when finding desired tone. The instrument signal chain can be adjusted and optimized prior to moving the Loudspeaker from its Neutral setting.
The Arming Switch SW1 on the 210 Flex allows a third voicing in the Bright/Dark SW2 switch. With the Arming Switch SW1 in the Default setting (Neutral) the Bright/Dark switch is not allowed access to the internal PXB circuit thereby not allowing the Dark voicing. In this mode the Bright/Dark SW2 switch will only change voicing from Neutral to Bright. This allows rapid change from Neutral to Bright without accidental engagement of the Dark setting. When the Arming SW1 switch is lifted to the Arm (Arm SW2) position the Bright/Dark SW2 switch then has access to the PXB circuit. If the Bright/Dark SW2switch is in the Bright position the PXB circuit remains disengaged. If the Bright/Dark SW2 switch is then put into the Dark position the PXB circuit is engaged and the cabinet enters the Dark voicing. The PXB circuit causes a slight decrease is sensitivity of the Mid/High section and when pushed into high power (700 watts or more) adds gentle compression and warmth.  For a more aggressive tone the Bright/Dark SW2 can be lifted to the Bright setting. This increases the sensitivity of the Mid/High section. The Bright setting can be set without regard to the position on the Arming SW1 switch.
The Tweeter switch can be used to set three different High Frequency options. In the default setting one tweeter is operational. The switch can be moved to the Off (center) position. In this position the High Frequency section is inactive allowing the Mid-range drivers to produce High Frequency output extending beyond 8KHz. This will produce an extended Midrange presence with a High Frequency roll-off. The Tweeter switch can be moved to the two tweeter (left) setting. This engages the second tweeter and makes a subtle change in the High Frequency crossover. This setting adds extra presence in the 10KHz range as well as the entire High Frequency section.
The Voicing switch is a phase control between the Mid/High section and the Woofer section. This controls the interaction of these two sections in the Upper Bass / Lower Mid-range region of the loudspeaker. This is useful in controlling the bass contour. In the Default setting this bass region is full and even. In the Non-Default setting this bass region is thinned. This thinner contour allows greater bass control in boomy environments or to create a cleaner sound when in Dark mode.

Thanks for posting these! I have a question regarding powering my 210. What power range power amp would you recommend to fully utilize this cab without fear of burning it up? I have a couple of micro heads (genz Streamliner 900, and a GK MB800), just wasn't sure if they would be able to take the 210 flex to its full potential.

Thanks!

The 210Flex is rated at 900watts RMS. However, in testing we fed it 1200Watts before we found the limit. I do not recommend this but a steady diet of 900Watts should not present an issue. Any of the amps you have should have enough power to unleash your 210. Mike likes his Tecamp Puma 900. We used an Ashly KLR3200 as the power amp in the signal chain. Amp choice would only be one portion of the equation. The signal chain would also be a factor. The cabinet will exhibit more tube type compression in the dark setting the harder the mid and high frequency is pushed. This could be done by raising the EQ in the signal chain on frequencies above 300Hz. This could also be done by using a HPF like the FDeck. The tweet circuit will also exhibit PXB compression whenpushed hard in the Bright setting.

If you are concerned about damaging the cabinet connect a RMS volt meter to the input of the 210 while experimenting. Never let the RMS AC voltage go beyond 60volts and things should be fine. There is a danger, however. You may be surprised at how much effort it takes to reach the 60v threshold with some amps. Most important, in my opinion, is CLEAN power. An amp struggling to produce 900Watts is far more dangerous than an amp than can deliver 1200 but is limited by the user to only 900.

Most important is to have fun. I expect you and the other Flex owners will find settings and implementations that we have never considered.

Thanks for being one of the first to join the BigE family.

Thanks, I just put in an order for the series 3 Ffeck HPF!

This cab is truly an amazing piece, thanks for the hard work you put into getting it right!